A Rosetta Stone From Senegal

GCY Fellows in Senegal must learn two languages: Wolof and French. With only days left in the country, I thought I might share some thoughts both fun and serious on the linguistic experience. Please pardon the grammar mistakes!

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Ci Amerik Gus laa tudd, Ruchman laa sant, wante fii am naa turu Olof. Maangi tudd Moustapha Gaye. Man jangkat laa; duma fajkat. Bi ma ñëwee fii, ci sama rew, Sénégal, lakk naa Angale ak Espagnol ndaxte jangoon naa Espagnol ba sonn ci jangukaay, wante lakkaguma Faranse walla Olof. Leggi dama mën a waxtaan ak nit ñi ci dëkk bi—doonte ma juum bu bare ba leggi—ndaxte ma jeem a wax ci lakk bu askanu rew, waaye su ñu waxée Peulh walla Sóosee kesse, dégguma daara. Lu ma yaggée fii tutti rekk, ma dégg Olof bu doy ngir liggey ci Poste de Santé. Móo tax bi may dajée ay mbokk ci Dakar, sama magu baay ne na ma, “yow jambar nga!”

Defe naa Olof bu xot móo gën a rafet Olof bu jaxase ak Faranse. Fii ci Noflaye ak Sangalkam loolu mungi dee. Bu ma jëfantikoo benn badd bu xot, sama waa kër ñu ree ma. Sama mag bu góor bañ a jappale ma ndax mu lakk “Olof Hip-Hop.” Ma ne, “nii du Olof bu dëgg. Dama bëgg am xam-xam bu seeni cossan!” Waaye dama fatteliku lu mu jangal ma Elhadj, xaritu Emily ku doon dimbale ma ma yokk lakk Olof: “nopp móo mag borom.” Xam naa Sénégal mungi soopeku di dafa mel nii dina reer ay cossanam yu baax. Kon boog damay jóoyal cadawu Sénégal. Read More »

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From Freedom Riders to Freedom Drivers

In partnership with the University of the Americas (UDLA) and the US Embassy in Quito, Global Citizen Year in Ecuador hosted an event, entitled “From Freedom Riders to Freedom Drivers: Cultivating Young Leaders for Freedom in Ecuador,” to commemorate the anniversary of Martin Luther King Jr’s birthday.

The event was held on the UDLA campus in Quito on the first night of the Mid-Term Retreat (January 5th, 2012).  It was the second cultural exchange that has taken place between the Global Citizen Year Fellows and Ecuadorian youth the Embassy’s Young Ambassadors Program and UDLA students .

During the event, the young leaders viewed excerpts from the Public Broadcasting Studio (PBS) documentary film, “Freedom Riders,” and subsequently discussed issues related to cross-cultural leadership for promoting positive social change.

The GCY fellows and staff, UDLA students, Young Ambassadors from the US Embassy Program, and representatives from UDLA and the US Embassy in Quito came together to celebrate MLK's legacy..

 

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Parent Post: La Vie Senegalaise – Impressions of Our Short Visit

This post was written by Nancy Bales Anderson, mother of GCY Fellow Erica Anderson, follow her trip to visit Erica in Senegal.

How can you properly prepare yourself for a visit to a developing country?  Iver and I thought we were prepared. Visiting the Travel Clinic, we had five immunizations, Typhoid doses, and had Malaria pills set aside for the trip.  We read snippets from books about Senegal.  We followed the Fellows’ blog postings, learning about their adventures to date.  We packed clothing using Erica’s suggestions so that, as tourists, we would not commit any fashion faux pas!  We were prepared to use cash for all transactions rather than our credit cards.  I tried to recall French phrases (from my high school classes!) that might be useful.  Erica arranged transportation, lodging and an itinerary for our week-long visit.  All was set.  Farewell Ames, Iowa.  Bonjour, Senegal!

As it turned out, Iver and I could never have been fully prepared for this most extraordinary experience.  How can I express the elation of seeing our daughter, Erica, after a five-month absence?  And how can we measure all the ways she has grown and changed during that time as she adapted to her new life and became a global citizen?

Erica with two parent families (deux famillies des parents)

Although Erica claimed that we were having the toubab version of a visit to Senegal (protected, vacationing part of the time like tourists), we were certainly in and amongst the people in a variety of cities and villages to witness “real life” there.  What an assault to the senses!  Imagine the vivid colors and patterns in the flowing women’s dresses (boubous) and head wraps –the beautiful Senegalese women are a favorite image.  Picture the colorful array of produce and other items at the vendors’ stands along the sandy streets and alleys.  Feel the warmth of a handshake and see the wide smile extended as a greeting.  Hear the cacophony of noise in the streets – car horns, truck and bus engines, donkey and horse hooves on the pavement, goats bleating, Muslim prayer chants being broadcast over loudspeakers.  Taste the distinct flavors of chebujen, onion sauce on rice, and bissap juice (made from dried hibiscus flowers).  Listen to the staccato of Wolof being spoken and to the lilt of French (and marvel at your daughter’s/son’s incredible command of both languages!).  All is rich and wondrous.

Corosol fruit, grown at Le Verger, the fruit orchard where Erica works

The opposite is true, too.  The smell of diesel fumes that belch out of trucks and cars (no pollution controls) and burning garbage cause the air quality to be toxic.  Lack of infrastructure is obvious in the condition of roads and the availability of drinking water to all regions of the country.  Sanitation leaves much to be desired.  Safe handling of food is dubious … suffice it to say that we were very careful about what we ate.  Street hustlers shove their wares in front of you – sunglasses, mobile phone cards, made-in-China “African” souvenirs – they are like pesky flies everywhere you go in tourist areas.  The feeling of helplessness is overwhelming every time women and children surround you begging for money; the face of poverty is everywhere and is heart-wrenching.

Teranga (Wolof, meaning Hospitality) is a proud heritage of the Senegalese people and was clearly evident.  Erica’s host papa, Lamine, took a week from his busy life to be with us, to chauffeur us to various places (he rented a car), and keep us safe.  As a result, we spent quality time with Lamine and learned much about himself and his family, his business, his tri-village community and about Senegal.  Lamine is an amazing man, a proud ambassador of his country and is Erica’s best friend.  Erica’s host family was excited to meet us and were welcoming and friendly.  Neighbors invited us into their homes and offered beverages or special tea to us.  Sometimes we even heard, in English, “Welcome to Senegal!  How are you?”

Assuredly, we saw unforgettable sights:  shifting sands in the desert dunes at Lompoul, donkey and horse carts laden with people and goods traveling along a sand “superhighway” at the edge of the surf of the Atlantic Ocean, the breathtaking silhouette of a baobab tree (Tree of Life in Senegal), goats everywhere, women conducting their daily tasks with a baby tied in a sling around their waist and/or carrying a basket on their head, colorfully-painted pirogues (fishing boats), bright-hued bougainvillea growing in many places, people jam-packed into brightly-decorated buses, and unusual fruit such as corosolgrowing at Le Verger, the fruit orchard where Erica works.

A beautiful baobab tree

Regrets?  Yes, there are a few.  I wish I spoke the language so that I could have had more meaningful conversations (but thank you, Erica, for your patience and impressive translation talents!).  I wish I could have taken pictures of the beautiful women in their clothing, or their houses/huts, or the colorful and dirty melee that is a marketplace … but it would have been rude to do so.  I wish we had been in a place to experience music and dancing.  I wish I had left my warm cot in our Bedouin tent to watch the sun rise over the desert.  Maybe next time …

We said our tearful goodbyes at the airport in Dakar.  I admonished Papa to please continue to watch over and care for our beloved daughter and to send her home to us in April.  I felt guilty at leaving – as mothers, we spend so much of our lives protecting our “babies” – from this distance I can’t provide her with an occasional warm shower or some variety in her diet or comfort when she has a difficult day.  Understand, however, that Erica has no complaints; for now, she is Mame Diara, confidently and joyfully a citizen of Senegal.

You note a thousand differences between life in Senegal and life in the United States.  Trying to reconcile these differences, especially between the “we have” and “they have not” has been my biggest challenge since my return home seven days ago.  I wept as I took a hot shower in my sanitized, modern home and had tears in my eyes as I pushed my grocery cart through the store to buy food.  How we take for granted these comforts, these services, these opportunities, this endless variety!  There are many kinds of aches in the world, some so beautiful and overpowering.

I may have returned to my life in Ames, Iowa but part of my heart stayed behind.  God bless our children living and working in Senegal – they are remarkable!  Global citizens … we are incredibly proud of them.  I pray for their well-being, their happiness, and for their safe return.

Le Village des Tortues ("Turtle Village" — Erica's Papa is the director of this ecotourism spot, and the country's tortoise expert)

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Mid-Term Retreat

Standing on a rocky cliff overlooking the pacific-ocean, we, the Global Citizen Year Fellows and staff, watched the orange

Our visit to the U.S. Agency for International Development project

Our visit to the U. S. Agency for International Development Project

sun dissolve into the horizon… quite an idyllic setting for a mid-term retreat. We all stood in soft awe at the scene where we would set aside the daily challenges of our immersion experience and work life, to reflect, in serenity, on the past few months.

We spent the mornings in training sessions on Foreign Aid and Local Development, the Girl Effect, and Cross-cultural Leadership. The Global Citizen Year staff and experts from the region led the training sessions. A highlight of the training was a field trip to a cacao project funded by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), where we learned about the role of US taxpayers’ dollars in supporting local cacao farmers to conserve their forests. We also enjoyed getting our hands dirty in one of the cacao nurseries that USAID supports.

A group of seven Fellows impressed us when they took the lead in one of the trainings to reflect on the Fellows’ achievements during the past few months. The leaders of this session did an excellent job at keeping the rest of the Fellows and staff engaged with fun and interactive activities that led to meaningful reflection and discussions about our personal journeys this year.

Fellow Welcome Dundas during the Fellow led session

In the afternoons we had free time to relax and enjoy the beach and each other’s company. Swimming in the ocean and in the pool on top of the cliff were popular afternoon activities.  Beach Frisbee and friendly sand wrestling came in second.  A group of Fellows got their hair braided by local artisans, while others braved the waves in a small boat. At dusk, everyone watched the sun drop into the waves and, of course, took pictures.

At night, we ate coconut shrimp and other famous Ecuadorian sea-food dishes. Games of ping-pong and pool were also prominent while other Fellows played the guitar and sang by a fire, toasting marshmallows. On one occasion, we all danced to the beat of the Afro-Ecuadorian traditional music – marimba (ballaphone), presented by a local band that came to play. The Fellows also bravely participated in an impromptu talent show.

From the staff perspective, our mid-term retreat was a complete success. Not only was it a relaxing and fun event, but it also gave the Fellows the opportunity to complement their field experiences with outside information and perspectives on development and their role within it. Critically, the retreat also gave the Fellows the space to share experiences and bond to form a more cohesive team.

Personally, I left the retreat feeling more energized than ever before. I was inspired by how well the Fellows had adapted to their individual Ecuadorian experiences. Their increased self-confidence and sense of possibility were palpable in a way that I had not sensed so far this year. It was clear that most of the Fellows were hitting their stride and were eager to make the most of the last three months of their time in-country. And the mid-term retreat allowed all of us – including the Fellows and staff – to take stock of how far we had come in this collective journey.

EQUATORIAL PACIFIC SUNSET

Equatorial Pacific Sunset

 

 

 

 

 

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Why I Still Believe

Although Global Citizen Year is a non-denominational organization, we all come from different places, different backgrounds, different beliefs. Which is exactly why his words echoed in my mind that night as I tried to determine if I had heard, let alone understood, correctly.

“You have no idea, but you came at exactly the right moment. I don’t think you realize, but you have helped me today much more than I have helped you. You’ve helped me much more than you’ll ever truly know.”

10:00 PM and we were just leaving the office. My incessant questions and confusion about simple tasks had amounted to more than twelve hours of work in one day. But not the type of work you’d expect in a development apprenticeship. Instead of working in the field, planting cacao; or in the classroom, managing a room full of mischievous kids; or in a health center, catering to the needs of an underserved population, I had spent all day in a beautiful, well-lit, thoughtfully decorated office working with the latest graphic design programs on the newest version of a Mac desktop. Needless to say, I had been comfortable.

Early that morning, I had left my hometown of Tena to work with the designer of our office’s publications in a neighboring town located about two hours away. I had met our designer once before, but I still didn’t know him well. From the first impression, he seemed to be “buena gente”—pensive, patient, intelligent. Definitely living in a more comfortable economic class than others I have encountered in my time here. We spent all day conversing, getting to know each other, working. Which is why when we left the office that night at 10:00 PM, his words caught me completely off guard. I looked at him in surprise, my face reflecting the questions racing through my mind. As I opened my mouth to respond, to try to deflect the comment, he continued, “You see, things haven’t been going so well. Honestly, I haven’t been in the office lately. I haven’t been working. When you called me this morning to ask about the address of my office, I didn’t know what day it was. I had forgotten you were coming, but when you called, I pulled together all the strength I had to try to put forward my best effort. For the past couple months, things have been pretty rough. I’ve had a lot of problems. But today, finding out that you were a Christian, that we share the same faith, that I could have something so uniquely distinct in common with someone who comes from so far away has been one of the biggest comforts I’ve had in a long time.”

I continued to stare at him in disbelief, as I tried to remember how he even knew what faith I held. Suddenly, it hit me. A five minute exchange we had had that morning was sparking this confession. He had asked me what type of music I liked to listen to, and followed that question by asking me to classify the genre of music he was playing at the time. After he defined it as the product of Christian artists, he confirmed that he listened to this genre because he also shared the same faith. Excitedly, I extended the commonality of our faith, but this camaraderie was quickly pushed to the side as heaps of design questions and decisions shoved their way into the center of our attention.

Still reeling in the weight of his words, I was so shocked. Taken aback. Honored. Blessed. It’s very easy to forget that simply because people do not live in poverty does not mean that they are problem-free. No matter where you are, who you are, or what you do, we all struggle, we all prosper. We fail, we succeed, we learn.

He continued, “It’s hard to live this life sometimes. It can be lonely.” Immediately, the prior feelings of self-significance diminished as I looked at him timidly and softly shared my agreement. Remembering the responsibility my self-proclaimed label entails, it weighed on me that the past year has definitely pushed my faith. However, this singular experience reminded me why I still believe. It is so easy to see only what you want to see in others. To believe the façade of equanimity that so many have perfected. To be oblivious to pain. But more often than we’d like to admit, it’s right there and very badly hidden. The only problem is that no one takes the time to see it.

As a very dear friend said to me in response to this encounter, “Some people need saving, and some people need to save someone.” I’m not quite sure which role I played that night. All I know is that somewhere in the midst of all that saving, I was shown exactly why I still believe.

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A day to remember

The Senegalese Go on Strike!!

January 27th will be the defining moment in Senegalese politics, of this decade. It seems like every time you turn on the TV someone, somewhere is protesting, going on strike, and/or launching complaints at the current administration. Teachers have gone on strike at least twice since the school year started in November, students are going on strike because the teachers are on strike. There has even been a country wide public transportation strike, protesting the high gas prices.

 

Political unrest grows with each day as we get closer to the 27th. Lately peaceful demonstrations have turned into full-fledged riots and now people are threatening to resort to violence if their complaints aren’t addressed. Everyone agrees that they want change and that Senegal needs change as a whole, but can all openly admit that they doubt that actual change will occur.

 

As it stands there are currently 14 possible candidates for the upcoming presidential election. Among them is the incumbent Abdoulaye Wade, the source of the controversy. Not only is he 84 years old, but also he has reached his 2 term limit.  The meeting of the constitutional committee on the 27th will validate or reject his candidacy. If it is approved it is speculated that it would be nearly impossible for another candidate to win. They lack the resources, political capital, and influence. There is no single opposition party, causing the vote to be split and their being no clear majority.

 

As for me I’m just in awe of it all. I find myself eavesdropping on conversations and pulling out my camera at the hint of excitement. The closest I’ve come to experiencing anything remotely close to this was a failed attempt at a walk out in my sociology class after my teacher assigned a 20-page bookwork assignment. Meanwhile the students of Senegal are organizing by the thousands and standing up for their rights.

The next days and weeks to come will ultimately shape the destiny of the Senegalese people. Only time will tell what the future holds.

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It’s More Than Just Tea


 Tea time here in Ataya from two shot glasses.

I have a love hate relationship with Ataya. People love inviting me to drink Ataya and I hate drinking it! I’ve burned off taste buds, ruined taste buds, and lost too many hours of sleep because of it. My French teacher is perhaps the only Senegalese that I’ve encountered who shares my sentiments about Ataya. Our conversation went something like this:

P: what did you do last night?

A: Not much, I had some Ataya with your son and his friends.

P: Me, I don’t like Ataya. I don’t drink alcohol, some cigarettes, or make tea.

A: Did you just compare a 25cent box to tobacco and alcohol?

P: Hahahaha! Yes, it’s the same thing, you lose all your time doing nothing! Just sitting around for hours just to have a couple sips of tea.

In Senegal, Ataya is not just a drink – it’s an activity, particularly popular among teen-aged boys. As for me, my first Ataya experience set the tone for our volatile relationship. It was probably one of the hottest days in Joal and I was invited to go to the beach with one of the other fellows and her host family. I was excited because it was hot beyond belief and it would be my first time at the beach. What I thought was going to be a beach turned out to be a large pool of lukewarm water. To my right a man was bathing his donkey and to my left was a woman doing her laundry. Nevertheless I went in, optimistically hoping for some refreshing waster and was met with the contrary. It was dirty and salty and had a slew of clams and seaweed on the ground. After about 20 minutes in the water my everything started to itch and burn and I was deathly thirsty. It was clearly time to go. After I got out of the water I was greeted by laughter as the others jeered at my expression.

Stephanie’s older brother asked me if I was thirsty and when I answered yes I saw him reach for his man purse (I had been curious as to what he could possibly have in there, he had it on all day) and pulled out a tea kettle and two shot glasses. My mouth gaped open! He could not possibly be serious! I was hot, covered in sand and salt, and thirsty and he was going to give me tea! There was not a boutique in sight so I had no choice but to smile and say thank you when he offered to make it. Little did I know that this would not be a five minute job, he took about 15 minutes to dig a hole and gather twigs and other flammable apparatus to aide the two pieces of coal. After about another 15 minutes of boiling he poured what I thought was the first cup of tea (it wasn’t). He proceeded in pouring the tea back and forth into two glasses, creating a thick white foam in each glass(this took about 7 minutes). We then waited what seemed like another ten minutes and then tea was finally served! I was the first to drink, being so thirsty I didn’t think that it could possibly be hot. Without hesitation I grabbed the glass and started drinking in one swift motion. To say I blistered my tongue was an understatement! I couldn’t feel the tip of my tongue, and I fumbled the glass and spilled the tea on my white t-shirt. I wasn’t able to taste anything, ruined my shirt and was STILL thirsty. I was then notified that it wasn’t done. The 9 other people with us had to drink and he had to start the process all over again two more times because there are three rounds in Ataya.

Every experience since then hasn’t been much better, but the other night I decided that I wasn’t going to let Ataya win, and I made Ataya for the first time! Granted it was just for me and my friend Samba and I didn’t drink any of it, but I still made it and felt very proud!

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¿Una Profesora? Who, Me?

In early January, the Prefecto (governor) of Napo came up to me and asked when I was leaving Ecuador.  When I told him in April, he announced, “That’s great! So, now you are going to teach English”.  You do not tell the Prefecto no.  So I got a little worried about what I was going to do.  I was in a panic thinking, I’m not a teacher. I have no idea how to teach English or anything.  Help!

Well, yesterday was my second class.  After spending the whole day preparing for this class, writing the plans, and printing worksheets, the whole nine yards… I had a great class.  We started with a dialog.  The students were in two lines: one A, the other B.  Then, they talked, and I watched.  You should have seen it!  They talked back and forth, and I would help when they asked for it.  The truth is that I did not have to do much of anything.  The students did it all.  They talked, and they helped each other.  Those who knew it helped and encouraged those who didn’t.  I never expected this, that being a teacher sometimes means letting the students teach themselves.  It was the most amazing thing.  I stood in awe.  I guess that I am not such a bad teacher after all.

I now understand why teachers are teachers.  It is not because they get a great pay check or because they like to give homework and make life difficult. No, the reason is to see the success of the students, to watch them grow and learn.

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A Day in the Life, Ecuador

Only Human A short video to take a glance at a day in my life, here in the little town of Cotundo, working at a public health clinic in the Amazonian lowlands of Ecuador’s Napo Province.

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My Day in the Life

Click on this link to see a day in my life!

Day in the Life

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The Search

We make our way through the village, buckets and scarves in hand. People are sitting out talking, laughing. Children are playing. Upon seeing our baggage one man wishes us luck.

“Search in peace,” he tells us.

Upon arrival at the water spigot, we find a small group of women, girls really, waiting. They sit on their buckets, laughing, talking, watching as the water level in the bucket under the spigot slowly rises. When full, a quick exchange is made, and the now full bucket is lifted onto a woman’s head, to be carried back to her home: to wash, cook, bathe, and drink.

After we’ve been waiting about twenty minutes, one girl anxiously calls our attention to the spigot.

“Look,” she says, “it’s slowing.”

We all take in a collective breath of anxiety. We watch as the stream of water slows to a trickle . . . and dies. A sigh is heard around the group.

“That’s bad luck,” my sister tells me. That’s an understatement, I sourly think to myself.

We pick up our buckets, empty as drums. We hang our head scarves over our shoulders, protecting us a little from the cold evening air. The other women talk of going to a farm down the road, where water might not have been turned off yet.

“It’s too far,” my sister says. The other women mutter in agreement. But for some of them, what choice do they have? If I don’t walk the extra kilometer, it means I don’t shower today. If some of the others choose not to, it means no food tomorrow.

We take leave of the group, still joking and laughing, and head back to our house. On our way we meet a woman walking towards the spigot.

“It’s been turned off,” we tell her. She lets out a sigh of exasperation. Then she asks my sister, “Can’t you wait until tomorrow? Don’t you have a reserve?”

My sister shakes her head. “I was working,” she explains. “I couldn’t call to tell them to start filling buckets.”

We arrive home to find my younger brother, Mohammed, with a bucket of water, taken from a nearby well. Without a word, we walk out again, buckets in hand. Each step I take I know I’ll be making it again, this time with fifteen liters of water on my head.

We make it to the well, a deep one, and fill our buckets. My sister tells me to stand back from the edge while she hoists the water, and I willingly comply. This is something I don’t really want to chance.

I help my sister hoist her bucket onto her head, and we call a girl walking by to lift mine. Within the first two steps water sloshes around in the bucket and over the sides, drenching the back of my t-shirt. My sister laughs and tells me to take it slow.

My mom greets outside the house, chuckles and says, “We should take a photo.” More water falls, this time soaking my skirt.

“Now I don’t need to shower,” I joke. “I just did.”

In our house, the unpredictable water cuts are obnoxious. It takes time and energy to fetch good, clean water. It hurts the top of your head, even with a scarf to cushion it. For others in the village, it is an everyday, sometimes all day occurence. It takes away from school, at least for Oumi and Hadi, twin girls about thirteen that live down the street. And the search is always the women’s job, or perhaps the girl’s. I dread the sound of the empty gurgle of the pipe as I turn the spigot, expecting water and receiving none. I now try to be grateful every time I fill my bucket, knowing that for an unbelievable number of people the search is constant and sometimes frightening. For me, the worst that could happen is I stay a little dirty.

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